So as I'm not working today and don't feel like approaching any of my uni work I thought I'd crack on with my attempt at making a 28mm viking village.
This is the progression from yesterday's posts- I'm working pretty quick on this project.
If you intend to follow the Jarl's longhouse build, pre-warning you that you'll be needing to eat a lot of asian cuisine.
Basing materials supplied by Famous Gaming, check them out!
The Jarl's Longhouse pre-paint looks like this:
If you're keen scroll on down!
So Part 1: some wicker style fencing & updates from yesterday!
The kit needed: trusty glue gun with something to stop it dripping on that lovely tablecloth, some chopsticks from Yo! sushi, a length of cut hardboard, some old broken headphones, some wire, clippers and a stanley knife.
added a bevel for realism
chopped the chopsticks into useable lengths, neated em up and cut into them to create a more log like appearance. The ones on the left have been trimmed, see the difference?
Ready for sticking
I tried them in a completely linear arrangement and didnt have so much success so switched to a slightly staggered one. Then glued them all in place with the hot glue.
Cut the wire and headphone leads into strips to represent wicker and other bendy boughs from trees and arrange them between the chopstick posts. Add some hot glue here and there to get it to stick together. Trim off any excess glue with the clippers or knife
Wove wiring in the same way around my corrall, and added a tuft in the corner.
Then based it in with PVA glue, an old crappy brush and a basing mix of different sand grains, old plaster bits and small rock particles. All are available at Famous Gaming on eBay, check out their rubble mix, its awesome. Also based everything from yesterday, and added some fine sand to the walls of the buildings to allow for a plaster effect.
I then moved on to gluing down the thatch roofs form yesterday. I mixed about 70% pva glue to 30% water and put it into a mister bottle, the kind that hair dressers and gardeners use and sprayed it across the roof. You could use pva and a brush but this method is a hell of a lot faster. WARNING: Do this outside unless you like glue EVERYWHERE.
Part 2: Jarl's Longhouse
I like the buildings I made yesterday but I couldnt help thinking they were a bit peasanty and i really needed to get to work on something substantial for my Jarl and his Huscarls to call home.
For this build I used: hot glue gun, scissors, craft knife, scourer pads, a ruler, a cut rectangle of hardboard as a base, 4-8 pins, lengths of 5mm foamboard offcuts and LOADS of chopsticks.
I used about 35 chopsticks in total. They're the kind you get from Yo!Sushi and Wagamama's, the nice thick ones not the thin crappy ones Tesco give you with their second rate sushi. I hoard these and have finally found a use for them! If like me you go mad for asian cuisine and like log buildings, give yours a wipe and pocket them for later- they only go in the bin otherwise!
On to the construction- The side walls were 4.5cm high and 16.5cm long and the gable ends were 9cm wide and 10cm high to the apex. This was partly dictated to by figure scale but mostly down to what was available in my pile of offcuts.
After sticking in a few pins I was able to see what i was working with. I cut a door into one of the gable ends, using a mini for scale.
I then cut the chopsticks to the correct lengths, trimmed them up to make them look for 'loggy' and hot glued them to the face of the foamboard. The overlaps were intentional to allow for a few interlocking sections later on. Notice the red blotches? Yeahhhhh stanley knives are sharp.
So this continued around the sides, adding glue to the joining areas and leaving the pins in for extra security. I then added two panels for the roof, cut to size. This allowed me to hot glue a chimney made from the square end sections of the chopsticks to the roof. I also used the square ends to add a door frame to the front. The logs down the sides and back were less uniform that the ones on the front on purpose, i wanted a more realistic patchwork kind of look.
See the plasticard crossed A frame top? Yeah ignore that....
I also glued a thin section between the gable ends and chimney to allow me to create the roof peak.
After deciding the foamboard crossed beams looked a bit out of place on something made of carefully carved wood, i opted to make them again from the squares left over from the beams. This was easy enough, just a bit fiddly to get the crossed areas glued in place.
WIP on the logs and crossbeams
View from the rear pre-thatch
For the thatching I cut the scourer into strips the length of the roof before carefully peeling the strips in half. Also note the extra row of chopsticks on the roof as beams? The scourer fit perfectly with their addition and I dont think they look too out of place.
Then rough up the scourer strips, literally yank on them and pull out bits here and there.
Hot glue gun them into place, starting at the bottom to allow easy layering. Use any small tufts of scouer to fill any gaps, a nice rough appearance is what were after.
I then continued layering until i reached this point, looks pretty good to me! Satsuma.
The village so far! Once its dried fully: painting!